This week in Yellowstone National Park, February 20th to February 26th, 2025, I share one of my favorite winter treks, give some tips on snowshoeing and cross-country skiing etiquette, briefly mention some visitation statistics, and of course, give you all the updates and more that you need to have a fantastic trip when you are visiting Yellowstone this week. Was that a run-on sentence? Yes, it was, but that’s just because I am too excited to pause to give you this week’s episode.
Listen to this as a podcast!
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
The standard disclaimer: I might miss a few things, so if there’s anything else you’d like to know, reach out! I also mention park locations casually, so a quick search might help if you’re unfamiliar. Also, this report only covers driveable areas of the park.
THIS WEEK’S YELLOWSTONE NEWS
Last week, Yellowstone National Park released their visitation numbers for January of 2025. January saw 40,363 visitors, a drop of 5.5% from January of 2024. This was also the least visited January since 2021 and was still the 8th most visited January in park history. I dove deep into January’s visitation numbers on a stand-alone podcast released earlier this week.
The Yellowstone community is currently focused on the non-renewal of contracts for approximately 1,000 National Park Service (NPS) staff throughout the Department of Interior, along with a reported hiring freeze. While discussions about these developments are widespread, specific details on how they will impact Yellowstone this year remain unclear. I will continue to seek information from reliable sources and provide updates as more concrete details emerge. At this time, it is difficult to predict the park’s staffing situation for the upcoming season. While the uncertainty is understandably concerning for many, an official statement from Yellowstone will be necessary to provide clarity. Once that information is available, I will share further insights.
Other than that, no real news this week. The Yellowstone Summit is currently happening, so if you want to know more about that, go to YellowstoneSummit.com.
As always, no news is good news.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
Early morning boardwalk wanderings. I know my whole thing is to go “Beyond the Boardwalks of Yellowstone,” but sometimes, you have to remember why the classics are the classics. My recommendation for this week is an early morning trek on the upper boardwalk at Mammoth Hot Springs, specifically Canary Spring.
Why the early morning and not at any time of the day? Right after sunrise, the steam from the thermal features at the upper boardwalk to Canary Springs is usually still frozen, creating a gorgeous frozen archway in spots. Canary Spring is quite possibly the most iconic thermal feature at Mammoth, showcasing the colors and terraces that have made the region popular since the park’s inception.
To get here, drive up the hill from lower Mammoth and park at the Upper Terrace Loop parking area. Follow the boardwalk by taking a right when you can and heading toward Canary Spring. Reaching Canary Spring from the parking lot is about a quarter of a mile or less, depending on where you parked. You’ll probably want traction devices for this, and you’ll definitely want warm layers. If you want to do more of the upper boardwalk area, have at it; just don’t walk on the snowshoe and cross-country ski path that follows the entire upper terrace road. Hiking this in regular shoes is not allowed.
TIP OF THE WEEK
Every so often, someone shares an experience they have had in the park, and it inspires me to give some advice. This week, the tip is for snowshoers and cross-country skiers who are going to be using the trails in the park for a fun day in nature.
When snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the park, on groomed and well-traveled areas like Mammoth’s Upper Terrace, Blacktail Plateau, and up to Calcite Springs and Tower Fall (yes, the official name is Tower Fall, not Tower Falls. Also yes, it sounds awkward. I’ll struggle with it again later in this episode), there are lanes of travel for each activity. A snowshoer should never walk on the cross-country ski path. A cross-country skier should also never get mad when a snowshoer is in their proper area.
Why am I bringing this up? I have heard about snowshoers on the path to Tower getting yelled at and even pushed by cross-country skiers who have not been observing these rules. I have also heard of snowshoers not knowing to walk in their designated areas and traipsing on the groomed cross-country ski path. Mixed-use trails are exactly that: mixed-use. At most of the trailheads I mentioned at the start of this segment, there are signs illustrating where each activity group should travel. Follow these signs, and when someone is not, be patient and kind when explaining the rules.
If you are in the backcountry, the rules aren’t as solid, but the general idea is to not be a jerk and ruin the pre-existing path. One run-in I had similar to this was out in the backcountry, where rules are a little less structured. I was snowshoeing in a remote corner of the northern range, on the struggle bus of my adventure, post-holing to my knees in my snowshoes in deep powder. I passed through a stand of trees and emerged into a clearing where I noticed old ski tracks. The tracks had been destroyed by a small bison herd that had passed through a few hours earlier, and the compacted snow would give me a much-needed reprieve from the sinking I was doing with each step if I chose to walk on them. I weighed the options and figured the bison have already ruined the area anyway, so what was the harm? I walked on this path for about a mile, following the ski tracks that had been ruined by the bison herd, when I noticed some backcountry skiers coming toward me. I stepped off the tracks and waited for them to pass. They passed, and when they were about 15 feet from me, one of them started screaming at me, swearing, and yelling about how I had ruined their ski trail. I tried to explain that the bison did it first, but it was pointless. I got called every name in the book as they skied away. When I was done, I chatted with a ranger friend and asked who was in the right. They tossed up their hands and didn’t have a solid answer. That is when I was told what I said at the beginning of this paragraph. If you are in the backcountry, the rules aren’t as solid, but the general idea is to not be a jerk and ruin the pre-existing path.
WEATHER FOR THE COMING WEEK
Lamar Valley: This week, highs will be in the 30s, and lows will be in the 20s. While that may be a serious winter in some places, this will feel warm and nice for locals. Expect snow showers on Sunday and Monday, with a chance of light snow on Saturday and Tuesday. There is a decent chance of a little sun on Friday and Wednesday.
Cooke City: After a potential for some light snow on Thursday, Friday looks to be partly cloudy. Then, the snow starts, with an inch or so expected on Saturday, four inches on Sunday, two inches on Monday, and then a half an inch on Tuesday. Wednesday looks to be partly sunny. Expect highs to be in the upper 20s and 30s, with lows in the teens and 20s.
Gardiner: Thursday will start a little snowy in Gardiner but should end by late morning, clearing up a bit for Friday. There may be some light snow showers heading into Saturday, but Saturday should be like Friday. Sunday and Monday could see rain or snow showers, then sun should return by Tuesday and Wednesday. Highs will be in the mid to upper 30s and low 40s, while lows will be all over the place, sometimes in the teens, other times in the 20s or 30s.
As always, temperature may be higher or lower than I say, and snowfall amounts may also be higher or lower. The area is hard to predict, especially more than a day or two out.
SNOWPACK UPDATE
Last week’s snowstorms continued to help stack things up, bringing the snowpack levels in the park into the upper 90% of normal range. Warmer temps this week will see those numbers drop a little, but it shouldn’t be anything too significant or worrisome. At this time last year, we were at below 70% for the entire park.
ROADS CONDITIONS
The roads this week are going to be Yellowstone roads in the winter. You may have some spots of visible pavement here and there. You may have sections of compact snow and ice in spots. As always, expect winter driving conditions. Lower your speed and know that the park roads do not have shoulders.
For up-to-date information call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777. Anticipate possible road closures due to inclement weather and dangerous driving conditions.
CAMPING INFO
Do not camp unless you have good winter gear and are experienced in winter camping. In January, just 54 people camped in Yellowstone.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
You have to listen to the podcast to get this information. Sorry.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
Love what you heard, but want more information on wildlife watching and hiking in and around the park? Get even more out of your adventure with my wildlife-watching and hiking guidebooks to the region! Available in both ebook and paperback formats, my book will help you spot wildlife like a seasoned local. Grab your copy now at outdoor-society.com!
HIKING NEWS AND UPDATES
Expect some pretty crummy snow this weekend. With temperatures climbing, the snow is going to compact a bit, hopefully making some of the backcountry trails a little less of a slog to snowshoe on. The main trails should be great, though!
TREK OF THE WEEK
This is quite possibly one of the most-trekked winter trails in the park, but for good reason. It is truly stunning, rewarding those who cross-country ski or snowshoe here with fantastic views, stunning scenery, and a chance to see some wildlife, all on a snow-covered road that is often groomed.
The trek is around 5 5-mile round trip with about 450 feet of elevation gain. The path is super easy to follow and one of my favorite experiences that will help you love Yellowstone in the winter. With the road to Tower Fall closed in the winter at the junction at Roosevelt, the only way to reach the stunning views once the road is closed for the season is on foot, more often than not in snowshoes.
Tower Fall and Calcite Springs are beloved roadside jaunts in the summer months, but reaching them in the winter is truly special. Long gone are the full parking lots and paths bustling with activity. They have been replaced with a peacefulness and serenity that warms the heart and soul on the coldest of days.
For me, the main highlight of this trek is the Calcite Springs Overlook. Don’t get me wrong, seeing Tower Fall from the viewing area, frozen and blue against the exposed rocky towers for which the area was named, is stunning. I just think the view from Calcite is even more stunning. At Calcite, the panoramic view will have you seeing steam rising from the bottom of Bumpus Butte, with the Yellowstone River flowing gorgeously far below your feet. You’ll see examples of millions of years of geology and volcanic activity across the river, giving you access to the past against impossibly steep canyon walls. To the east, towering mountains rise to meet the sky, and along the canyon rim, you may catch a glimpse of bison, elk, or bighorn sheep grazing.
Between Calcite and Tower, the road levels off, and you’ll get to walk along the canyon rim. On one side will be stunning rock formations. On the other will be sweeping views of the Yellowstone River and surrounding landscape. This is legitimately one of the most stunning roadside stretches in all of Yellowstone, and in the winter, you get to take your time and walk it, soaking it all in. Then, when you peel yourself away from the grand vista, you’ll get to walk over the bridge spanning Tower Creek and look at the incredible designs caused by freezing temperatures.
Once you reach Tower, the parking lot will be empty, the store will be closed, and there may be bison roaming nearby. Make sure none are on the trail and head down the short path to the overlook. At the overlook, enjoy the beautiful view of the frozen waterfall and rocky pillars. It is definitely more than fine if you love this view more than Calcite Springs.
The wildlife sightings on this trek can also be quite good if one is lucky. You can see bison nearly every time and occasionally see bighorn sheep, coyotes, foxes, elk, and even signs of wolves. While I have yet to see a wolf here, I have heard them howl and have spotted fresh tracks in the snow multiple times each year.
BOOK A HIKING TOUR
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If you are ready to hit the trails, reach out to me directly or check out my current guided hiking options at outdoor-society.com. Let’s make your Yellowstone adventure one to remember!