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This week in Yellowstone National Park, from April 10th to April 16th, I talk about the oldest structure still standing in Yellowstone, give tips on bear spray, share a great trail for this time of the year, and let you know where you may be able to see bears during the coming week. Of course, I also give you all the tips and information so you can enjoy yourself to the fullest This Week in Yellowstone.
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Disclaimer: I might miss a few details, so feel free to reach out with questions! I also mention park locations casually—if you’re unfamiliar, a quick search can help. This report only covers driveable areas of the park.
Also, this is a passion project—I’m not paid or sponsored. If you’re enjoying it, I’d love a review or a quick email! To support my work, check out my guidebooks on hiking and wildlife watching, or join me for a guided Yellowstone tour. For details, check out the tabs at the top of the website!
THIS WEEK’S YELLOWSTONE NEWS
Last week, the road between West Yellowstone and Mammoth, through Norris, opened to bike travel. It will continue to be open only to bike travel until the interior roads start to reopen to personal vehicles on April 18th. Until then, the only road you can drive on is between Gardiner, Montana, and Cooke City, Montana, passing through Mammoth, Tower Junction, Lamar Valley, and Soda Butte Creek.
An update on Montana’s wolf population laws. A month or so ago, I discussed a few bills introduced to Montana’s state legislature that would have allowed more wolves to be hunted. Both bills failed and the current wolf populations will remain intact.
There also is an update on the Biscuit Basin area of the park, which experienced a hydrothermal explosion in the summer of 2024. The latest news is that the area is more than likely going to remain closed for the summer. Over the winter, numerous hydrothermal explosions continued to rock the area, witnessed both by researchers and visitors on over-snow travel vehicles. What this means is that the Biscuit Basin boardwalk, as well as the trail to Mystic Falls, will be closed for the summer. If you need other areas to hike, do not hesitate to reach out to me, as I know where to hike and walk in the park better than most.
Other than that, news is slow in the park right now. Starting a week or two, we will have a lot more news, but until then, we get to rest and relax and prepare for true tourism season to start.
RANDOM YELLOWSTONE TIDBIT
This week, I wanted to talk about the oldest surviving structure in Yellowstone National Park.
You’ve definitely heard of Yellowstone’s famous Old Faithful Inn and probably know the history of the neat, red-roofed buildings of Fort Yellowstone. But tucked away far from the crowds, down in the Lower Geyser Basin, there’s a much humbler structure with a story just as captivating—maybe even more so.
About two miles off the nearest road, hidden among the steaming vents and quiet pools, you’ll find the remains of a small, weathered log cabin. At first glance, it might seem unremarkable—just another abandoned building in the vast American West. But this one is special. It’s the Queen’s Laundry bathhouse, and it holds the title of the oldest surviving building in Yellowstone National Park.
Built in 1881, this little bathhouse wasn’t just for show. It was the first structure the federal government ever built for public use in any national park. That alone makes it a historic landmark. But it also stands as the last remaining piece from Yellowstone’s first civilian administration—those early years between the park’s creation in 1872 and the arrival of the U.S. Army in 1886.
At the center of that formative era was Philetus Norris, Yellowstone’s second Superintendent. Norris had a vision—he laid out the park’s first road system, hired its earliest rangers, and pushed for congressional funding. But the Queen’s Laundry? That came from a much more spontaneous spark of inspiration.
Legend has it, one day Norris watched as some members of his team discovered a steaming spring with just the right temperature for a bath. Soon, clothes were drying on branches, and the air filled with laughter as they soaked in the warm waters. They jokingly dubbed it “The Laundry,” and Norris—ever the practical dreamer—decided that spot deserved its own bathhouse.
So the Queen’s Laundry was born—a log structure with two rooms, built beside a natural soaking pool cooled just enough from the spring’s scalding vent. Though never fully completed—one room doesn’t even have a finished door—it quickly became a popular stop… for a time.
Today, the building sits vacant, half-preserved and half-reclaimed by the mineral-rich sinter from the spring. No one bathes there anymore—thermal runoff has changed, and park rules protect the fragile landscape. But the Queen’s Laundry still stands, over 140 years later, a silent witness to Yellowstone’s earliest days.
It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2001, and if you ever find yourself hiking the backcountry trail that passes within a few hundred yards, take a moment to pause. You can’t walk up to it—traveling off-trail in a thermal area is dangerous and illegal—but you can stand at a distance, look across the basin, and imagine the steam rising, the clothes drying on branches, and the laughter echoing through the geyser mist.
Old Faithful might get the spotlight, but Queen’s Laundry? That’s Yellowstone’s quiet legend.
I actually do have a tour of this location and would be happy to take you there, if you like. Just contact me and I’ll give you some information.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
Go look for bears. We are at the start of bear season and over the last week, bear sightings in the open areas of the park have skyrocketed. Last week I saw my first active grizzly, and in the same region, more grizzlies have been sighted, including a grizzly sow with a cub. My most reliable locations for early-season grizzly sightings are Blacktail Ponds, Slough Creek, Little America, and Lamar Valley. As of the 7th of April, both boars and sows with cubs, have been spotted in each of these areas.
Your best chance of seeing a bear is, of course, the bear den near the petrified tree. I mentioned this spot at the end of February and it is even better now. Located at the large pullout near the Petrified Tree turnout, between Floating Island Lake and Tower Junction, there is a chance to look into a bear’s den. This black bear den has been used three out of the last four years and is a good, quick stop when heading to or from Lamar Valley. As of late, the black bear sow has been quite active, even having her two newborn cubs come out of the den.
By the way, I know I have said this before, but it bears repeating. Get it, bears repeating? Bears do not truly hibernate; instead, they enter a state called denning or winter torpor. Hibernation and torpor are both states of reduced metabolic activity used by animals to conserve energy. Torpor is a short-term, temporary state of lowered body temperature and metabolism, often lasting hours or days. Hibernation is a prolonged, deep state of dormancy with significantly reduced body temperature, heart rate, and metabolism, lasting weeks or months. Unlike true hibernators, a bear’s body temperature during torpor drops only slightly, and they can wake up more easily if disturbed. They also remain capable of giving birth and nursing cubs during this period.
TIP OF THE WEEK
A few things to know about Bear Spray. I recently received a message via email from a listener who was asking about bear spray and I wanted to answer those questions here, as they are relevant to a lot of visitors. Thanks, Craig and I hope these answers help.
Oh, and please note that later this month or early next month, I will have a stand-alone podcast episode on bear safety in the park.
Alright folks, let’s talk about a serious subject for anyone adventuring in bear country—bear spray. It’s your best, realistic defense against a charging bear, but only if you know how to use it properly. So today, we’re diving into bear spray basics: where to get it, how to carry it, how to use it, and what to do if a bear actually charges at you. Let’s get into it.
Use the Right Stuff
Not all sprays are created equal. You want an EPA-approved bear spray—not pepper spray for joggers or personal defense. Bear spray is specially formulated and pressurized to reach a bear from a safe distance. The minimum size of can the EPA will register is 7.9 ounces or 225 grams. Cans smaller than this may not have sufficient spray duration or distance to be used safely in deterring a charging bear. Most of my bear spray canisters are from a company called Counter Assault or UDAP. I am sure there are other brands, but these are the two I most often see in local stores.
Where to Get It
You can grab bear spray at any outdoor store in the region. You can get it in Bozeman, West Yellowstone, Jackson, Cody, Livingston, and Gardiner, as well as most in-park shops and gas stations. The Bozeman Costco also usually has it this time of year.
Renting & Recycling
If you are just visiting and don’t want to buy a can, you can seasonally rent bear spray at Canyon Village, West Yellowstone, Old Faithful, and Gardiner. There may be other places, but these are the towns I know did it last year. You’ll need to search online for locations, hours, and costs. Remember, do not ever throw away your bear spray. It’s pressurized and dangerous to trash. Instead, recycle it at camping stores or contact me and I will happily take it off your hands.
Carry Smart, Not Buried
Where you carry your bear spray matters. Don’t stuff it in your backpack. That’s not gonna help you in a surprise encounter. You want it right where you can grab it fast, ideally in a quick-draw holster on your belt or chest. You should also practice taking it out of the holster and removing the safety. You also need to familiarize yourself with how to use it, as you may only have seconds to use it. A bear isn’t going to wait for you to read directions.
You Don’t Need to Be a Sharpshooter
Here’s some good news: you don’t need perfect aim. Bear spray creates a wide cloud that irritates a bear’s eyes, nose, and lungs. Your job is to put that cloud between you and the bear. That’s it. Think of it as creating a barrier, not hitting a target.
Practice Makes Confidence
Practice is key. Grab an inert training can—these are made specifically for safe practice. Run through the steps: pull it from the holster, flip the safety tab off with your thumb, and fire. Practice in different wind conditions too: with the wind at your back, coming at your face, and blowing from the side. That way, you’re not caught off guard when the wind’s working against you.
Don’t Use It Like Bug Spray
Quick PSA—don’t spray yourself, your gear, or your tent with bear spray like it’s bug repellent. It doesn’t work like that, and it could actually attract bears instead of deterring them. It will also be absolutely brutal for you. I once found a can of bear spray out on a hike and picked it up, only to discover it was leaking. I tossed it in a spare ziplock bag and then washed my hands in a creek. Half an hour later, I touched my nostril and it immediately began to burn. I could feel the impact of it for an hour.
It’s Not Foolproof—Stay Smart
Even the best bear spray isn’t 100% effective. The best defense is awareness and prevention. Make noise on the trail, hike in groups, and keep your eyes peeled for signs of bear activity. I’ll be diving a lot more into this on my stand-alone bear episode.
Heat Hazards
You’ll need to know that bear spray and heat equal bad news. These canisters can explode if they get too hot—like 120 degrees Fahrenheit. So don’t leave them in a hot car or near a campfire. Also, when traveling or storing them, seal them up in a ziplock bag, just in case.
Check The Expiration Date
Bear spray does expire. Before you head out, check the date on your canister. You don’t want to rely on a dud when it really counts.
If a Bear Charges—Here’s What to Do
Okay, deep breath—if a bear charges you, here’s your game plan:
Pop off that safety clip.
Aim slightly downward and adjust for wind.
Start spraying when the bear is about 30 to 60 feet away—that’s about 10 to 20 yards.
Your goal is to create a wall of spray the bear has to run through.
Keep spraying until the bear veers off.
If it doesn’t? Spray directly into its face.
Then, leave the area as soon as it’s safe.
More information can be found at https://bebearaware.org/deploying-bear-spray
WEATHER FOR THE COMING WEEK
Lamar Valley:
Cooke City:
Gardiner:
As always, the forecast is pretty predictable up to three days out, then it’s kind of a guess to an accurate forecast beyond that.
SNOWPACK UPDATE
The snowpack for the park is still looking fantastic. Last week’s snow helped keep things right around 100% of normal for this time of the year. While warmer temps this week will decrease the snowpack a bit, that is to be expected and normal, so we shouldn’t see too huge of a dip between this week and next. Things may drop to 90% of normal, but I would be shocked if they get to the 80% range this week.
ROADS CONDITIONS
With no snow or serious precipitation in the forecast, roads should be great. However, expect more construction vehicles on the road and potential delays starting near the old and new bridge site by Tower Junction.
For up-to-date information call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777.
CAMPING INFO
Mammoth Hot Springs remains the only open campground in the park and will be the only open campground in the park until May. However, additional camping options are available and will continue to open outside the park. If you need some spots to camp, reach out and I can share a few.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
You have to listen to the podcast to get this information. Sorry.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
Love what you have heard on this podcast and want more information on wildlife watching? Get a copy of my wildlife-watching guidebook to the region! Available in both ebook and paperback formats, my book will help you spot wildlife like a seasoned local. Please consider buying a book directly from me, as I make nothing when they are sold on Amazon. Grab your copy now at outdoor-society.com!
HIKING NEWS AND UPDATES
With more warmth this week, expect more trails to be snow-free but also expect more trails to be muddy. The higher in elevation you go, the more likely you’ll have snow.
TREK OF THE WEEK
The Yellowstone River Trailhead at Jardine.
I would recommend the Hellroaring Trail again, but I could say that every week. Instead, I have a spot just outside of the park that will have you nearly alone, and out along a scenic stretch of the Yellowstone River.
Starting at the Eagle Creek Campground on the road to Jardine, above Gardiner, there is a trail that is perfect for this time of the year. Since the trail is south-facing, the snow has melted out and the mud should be mostly dried, giving you a chance to put in some miles with elevation gain while snow still lingers in the higher elevation.
In the first two miles, the trail descends approximately 750 feet to reach the river, switchbacking and meandering past old mining equipment as breathtaking views unfold around every corner. At the two-mile mark, you arrive at the river and have an opportunity to follow it upstream for a while. The trail endured significant damage during the floods of 2022, but you can easily traverse it to the Yellowstone National Park boundary, a few miles away without any issues. Beyond the boundary, the trail is officially closed. When it reopens, I will discuss the entire trail, as it is a true classic. Until then, enjoy the route as an out-and-back.
If you want a scenic day along the river with a little bit of elevation gain, do not skip this trail. I’ll be heading there soon and strongly suggest you do the same. It is a place where you’ll easily find solitude and natural beauty all around, all just outside of the park. Since the trail is outside the park, it also means you can bring your dog with you. Just make sure to leash them or have them very well-trained, as wildlife will be around enough to test the good behavior of any dog. Also, do not enter the park with your dog while hiking. Ever.
Finally, please be aware that wildlife can be plentiful in this area, from elk and deer to bison and bears. Even a few bighorn sheep sometimes can be seen out this way. You’ll also have a chance to see a lot of birds of all sizes, so keep your eyes and ears open.
