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This week in Yellowstone National Park, I give an update on the wolf hunting bills, tell you about a lesser-known road in Yellowstone to drive, share a cool snowshoe and cross-country ski route, and also let you know how the wildlife sightings have been. Hopefully, this will help inspire you to take a trip to the park.
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The standard disclaimer: I might miss a few things, so if there’s anything else you’d like to know, just reach out! I also mention park locations pretty casually, so if you’re unfamiliar, a quick search might help. Also, this report only covers driveable areas of the park.
THIS WEEK’S YELLOWSTONE NEWS
It is another slow news week in Yellowstone, but I do have a few things to update and share. The first is an update on the wolf hunting bills I talked about last week. House Bill 222 failed, while House Bill 176 was amended and passed a vote in the House. HB 176, sponsored by Republican Rep. Shannon Maness of Dillon, initially required the Montana Fish and Wildlife Commission to establish an unlimited statewide quota on wolf hunting while the population was above 550 animals statewide. However, HB 176’s language was amended on the floor, allowing the Fish and Wildlife Commission to apply an unlimited quota at their discretion. The commission could continue to manage wolves under the state’s current management strategy. If updates occur, I will share those.
Other than that, the only news making the rounds is a potential issue with seasonal workers in National Parks and the president’s hiring freeze. While the hiring freeze was rescinded, local news agencies like the Bozeman Daily Chronicle are still reporting on a potential staffing problem for the summer. From what I can tell, the issue doesn’t seem to be anything big at the moment, which is why I won’t be mentioning it again unless it amounts to anything serious. I won’t be playing the “what-if” game with news stories.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
Drive the Old Yellowstone Trail South Road. I could talk about this for hours, but this is the condensed version. Many who visit the park’s northern entrance in Gardiner, Montana, assume that they have left the park once they pass through the entrance station back into Gardiner from Mammoth. While you have left the main park access point, there are still 4.5 miles of Yellowstone National Park that should be seen. After leaving the park, head under the Roosevelt Arch and hang to the left. You’ll drop down a small hill, pass a park on the right, and then go past the high school, also on the right. I will only say this once, but it applies to the entire road: keep your eyes open for wildlife, as they frequent this region all year long.
A few hundred yards after the high school, you’ll see the Yellowstone Heritage and Research Center on your right. With over 6 million items, Yellowstone has one of the largest collections in the National Park Service. The collections grow continuously with the addition of archival records, archeological artifacts, and scientific specimens.
To learn more, schedule an appointment to explore the herbarium or archives, sign up for a public tour of the museum collection, drop in during business hours to explore the library collection and public exhibits, or view the online collections anytime. According to the Yellowstone NPS website, the current exhibits are:
- Women in Yellowstone: This exhibit tells the story of several women from the early history of Yellowstone National Park through their work as park rangers, naturalists, and entrepreneurs.
- Yellowstone National Park: Travel through Time: This online exhibit explores travel through Yellowstone Park, from the earliest Native American groups, European trappers and surveyors to present-day visitors.
Once you have left the heritage and research center, continue on the road, heading north. The road will gradually climb a hill, giving off views of Electric Peak. One mile from the arch, you’ll see a small dirt road on the right. Take this road if you want to see the Old Gardiner Cemetery. Also known as Tinker’s Hill Cemetery. If you stop and wander the cemetery, you may see some names you recognize from places and stories of Yellowstone National Park. Make sure to stop and look back toward Gardiner when you head back to the main road, as you’ll get a cool view of the town, Mount Everts, and the Roosevelt Arch.
Beyond the cemetery, the road continues to slowly climb the hill, passing pullouts to stop and look for wildlife or just take in the sweeping views. Once you reach the top of the hill, it drops down sharply, passing Stephens Creek Road, best known as a bison capture area for bison relocation and brucellosis testing. After passing this road, you’ll remain in the park for another 1.8 miles.
Once you leave the park, continue on the road for 3.4 miles, taking in the cool sights, wildlife spotting, and the relative calmness of this dirt road. Enjoy the geological feature known as Devil’s Slide, access to the Yellowstone River, and more before crossing the bridge to get to Yellowstone Hot Springs and back to Highway 89. To return to Gardiner, turn right on Highway 89.
TIP OF THE WEEK
My tip of the week will seem simple and obvious, but it is very important. What is it? It is “Have a pair of binoculars or a spotting scope.”
I often see people in the park pulling over to a pullout where wildlife is out in the distance, and they are not able to see it without the aid of a good pair of binoculars or a spotting scope.
You may get lucky and see wildlife close to the road, but chances are, it will be out in the distance. Especially if it is a wolf or a mountain lion. Last week, when I was in the park, people were watching wolves from two miles away. When they are that far away, you will not be able to see them without binoculars or a spotting scope. Even when they are closer, you’ll still want to be able to see them and not just a dot in the distance. Because of that, always have a pair of binoculars or a spotting scope with you when you are in the park.
While you may want to know what brand I prefer, that is a matter of personal preference. Currently, Vortex seems to be the most common type of binoculars used in the park. They can cost anywhere between $100 and $1500 for a pair of binoculars, depending on the size and power. They don’t pay me anything to mention them here, I am just sharing what is currently the most popular optics company used in the park.
WEATHER FOR THE COMING WEEK
It is winter, and this week’s forecast shows it. Expect some snow, some cold, and some sun.
Lamar Valley: Snow should be developing in the region on Thursday, with Friday being the snowiest day. Currently, the forecast is calling for five inches of snow. Highs on Thursday and Friday will be in the 20s, and lows dropping to -1 by Friday night. The rest of the week will be partly sunny, with highs in the teens and lows below zero.
Cooke City: As always, Cooke City will be similar to Lamar, but colder and snowier. Highs on Thursday and Friday will be in the low 20s and the lows will be below zero. Six inches of new snow is in the forecast for Thursday and Friday. It may also snow lightly on Saturday. After the snowstorm, expect highs in the low teens and lows below zero.
Gardiner: Gardiner will be warmer than Lamar and Cooke City, with highs just below freezing for Thursday and Friday. The low on Friday is said to be 2 degrees. Friday may also have Gardiner seeing three inches of new snow. Expect highs Saturday through Wednesday to be below freezing, with lows in the negatives. It will be partly sunny, though.
SNOWPACK UPDATE
The snowpack continues to climb, which is great news. The NW corner of the park is about 100% of normal, while the west side of the park is around 90%. The rest of the park is hovering around 87%. We still have a ways to go, but this has been a decent winter so far.
ROADS CONDITIONS
The roads in the park have the potential to be decently snow-packed throughout the weekend and also icy in a few spots. Fresh snow will impact travel times and potentially make the road more hazardous. They will gradually get better as the weekend ends, but don’t expect clear pavement on a majority of the open road in the park any time soon. As always, drive slowly and do not drift toward the shoulder too much. I have consistently seen cars that have driven over the white line and gotten stuck in the snow.
For up-to-date information call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777. Anticipate possible road closures due to inclement weather and dangerous driving conditions.
CAMPING INFO
As per usual, this time of year, Mammoth is the only campground in the park that is open. If you are camping, expect very cold temperatures at night. Do not camp unless you have good winter gear and are experienced in winter camping.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
As of the time of the recording, which is Wednesday, February 5th, wolves have been spotted around the Hellroaring area. Moose are still hanging out around Round Prairie, and bison and elk are scattered about in the northern range. I have even heard that some bighorn sheep have been visible, with ewes near the Yellowstone River Picnic Area and rams near the confluence. There black bear in the den near the Petrified Tree has also occasionally been sticking its head out, which is fun to see.
Outside of the park, wildlife abounds. The large elk herd is still hanging out north of the park and north of Yankee Jim Canyon, while bighorn sheep are also frequently spotted around there. Out near Cooke City, moose and foxes have been spotted daily.
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
Love what you heard, but want more information on wildlife watching? Get even more out of your adventure with my wildlife-watching and hiking guidebook to the region! Available in both ebook and paperback formats, my book will help you spot wildlife like a seasoned local. Grab your copy now at the store link above!
HIKING NEWS AND UPDATES
The trails will be snow-covered, so you will need snowshoes or cross-country skis to experience pretty much anything. You could attempt to hike in just boots, but you will be post-holing deep every single step. Expect any non-groomed trail to be slow going, even with the correct gear.
TREK OF THE WEEK
If you are headed to the park this week, you’ll have an opportunity to see the landscape after a heavy snow. The heavy snow will allow you to see the movements of animals in the snow, as well as take in sweeping vistas of the snow-covered landscapes. While nearly every trail will be awesome, the trek I recommend for this coming week is the Blacktail Plateau Ski Trail. For this adventure, snowshoes or cross-country skis are required. If you snowshoe, do not walk on the cross-country ski paths.
Start at the trailhead 8 miles from Mammoth, near the Forces of Nature boardwalk trail, not at the standard start of the Blacktail Plateau road. You’ll get a more gradual incline to start and also some pretty epic views of the Gallatin Mountains, including Electric Peak. This is an out-and-back trail, so travel as far as you wish and then turn around.
When I wander this trail in the winter, I usually see elk and bison, coyotes, and foxes. I have also seen fresh wolf tracks in the snow and heard about a cross-country skier coming across a wolf pack here just last week. It is definitely a good place to check out! I have also heard of people seeing ermine and owls on this path this winter.
BOOK A HIKING TOUR
Love being on foot in the great outdoors, but want to make the most of your time in Yellowstone? Imagine hiking the trails with a knowledgeable expert who knows the best spots, hidden gems, and all the incredible wildlife stories the park has to offer.
I offer private guided hiking tours in Yellowstone, designed to give you an unforgettable adventure in the wild. Whether you’re looking for breathtaking views, wildlife encounters, or just a stress-free day in nature, I’ve got you covered.
Ready to hit the trails? Reach out to me directly or check out my current guided hiking options above. Let’s make your Yellowstone adventure one to remember!
