by 
This week in Yellowstone National Park, from April 16th to April 22nd, 2026, I will tell you where to go and how to get there, let you know what to expect in the park’s interior, share the history of an old hotel in the geyser basin, and recommend a scenic trek. I will also give you the complete weather forecast, the snowpack update, the wildlife report, and everything else you need to have an incredible time, “This Week in Yellowstone.”
LISTEN TO THIS AS A PODCAST
The text below is my notes for the podcast. They may be incomplete.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
Disclaimer: I may miss a few details, so please feel free to reach out with any questions. I also mention park locations casually. If you’re unfamiliar, a quick search can help. This report only covers drivable areas of the park.
Also, this podcast is a passion project. If you enjoy it, I’d love a review or a quick email! To support my work, check out my hiking and wildlife-watching guidebooks, or join me for a guided hiking tour in Yellowstone’s backcountry. For more information, visit outdoor-society.com or contact me directly. Seriously though, come book a trail tour with me.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
Roads Start to Open
On April 17 at 8 a.m., everything changes in Yellowstone National Park. Roads open from both West Yellowstone and Gardiner, reconnecting the park through Madison Junction, Norris Geyser Basin, and Mammoth Hot Springs. For the first time since early November, you can once again drive into the park’s interior, linking geothermal basins, waterfalls, and prime wildlife habitat in a single day. According to the National Park Service, these spring openings are entirely dependent on weather and snowpack, both of which still play a major role well into April.
Coming in from West Yellowstone, the drive starts quietly along the Madison River. Steam rises in the distance, and wildlife often moves through the open valleys in the early morning light. This stretch toward Madison Junction is one of the most scenic early-season drives in the park. Elk and bison are common, and it’s not unusual to spot bald eagles or waterfowl along the river. It’s the kind of place that encourages you to slow down right away.
From Madison, heading south takes you straight into Yellowstone’s geothermal core. The park contains more than 10,000 hydrothermal features, including roughly half of the world’s geysers. As you move through the Lower, Midway, and Upper Geyser Basins, steam rises through lingering snow, creating a striking contrast. By the time you reach Old Faithful, the experience feels entirely different from summer. Fewer people, colder air, and a quieter atmosphere make it feel far more personal.
Heading north from Madison toward Mammoth offers a completely different landscape. The road follows the Gibbon River through forest before opening into smaller geothermal areas. One of the best stops along the way is Gibbon Falls, where spring runoff makes the 80-foot cascade especially powerful. Nearby pullouts are easy to overlook, but they offer quick access to small geysers, hot springs, and quiet river views without the crowds.
Farther along, Norris stands out as one of the most dynamic places in the park. Norris Geyser Basin is constantly changing and home to Steamboat Geyser, the tallest active geyser in the world. Even in April, when boardwalks can still be icy in the morning, the basin feels alive, with steam rising into cold air and thermal features contrasting against the lingering winter landscape.
As you approach Mammoth, the terrain opens up and the focus shifts to wildlife. The hills around Mammoth and nearby Swan Lake Flats are some of the best places to watch for elk, bison, and even bears emerging in early spring. With fewer visitors than in summer, it’s easier to find a pullout, stop, and take it all in.
Then there are the underrated moments that define a spring visit. Small pullouts along the Gibbon River. Walking near Sheepeater Cliffs. Exploring places like Firehole Canyon Drive before it opens to vehicles. This time of year rewards slowing down and paying attention, stopping not because something is famous, but because something catches your eye.
Another major highlight accessible with these openings is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. In April, the canyon feels different. Snow lingers along the rim, and while some trails like Red Rock Point or the Brink of the Lower Falls may still be closed, key viewpoints begin to open. The waterfalls, especially the Lower Falls, grow stronger with early snowmelt, creating a powerful and constantly changing scene.
What makes this time of year so compelling is the balance. You have access to Yellowstone’s most iconic features, but without the intensity of summer crowds or fully open amenities. The lack of infrastructure keeps visitation lower, creating a quieter, more personal experience at places that will soon be packed. At the same time, conditions still feel like late winter. Snowbanks line the roads, temperatures stay cool, and steam is visible everywhere in the thermal basins. The weather can change quickly, and snow is still common. The National Park Service notes that spring storms can lead to temporary closures even after roads open.
That unpredictability is part of the experience. April 17 isn’t just about access. It’s about timing. It’s about stepping into Yellowstone right as it begins to open, when wildlife is active, landscapes are shifting, and the park still holds onto its quiet. From West Yellowstone to Mammoth, this is the moment where everything starts to come back to life, just before the rush of the main season arrives.
TIP OF THE WEEK
Don’t Expect Real Spring Weather Or Many Open Amenities
If you have been paying attention to the weather of the Western United States, you are probably aware of how much of the region is in drought and how dismal the snowpack is throughout the western states. While it is true that areas in and around the park are starting to green up a little, we are still a ways off from it feeling like spring for visitors who come out here from elsewhere in the country. There may be cherry blossoms and wildflowers blooming elsewhere in the country, but it isn’t going to be like that here in Yellowstone for another month. Yellowstone will still feel like winter for many of you for another month or so, so it is important to prepare for cooler weather. Morning temperatures can be in the 30s and 20s, maybe even the teens, depending on where you are. Highs may hit 60, but could also hover in the 30s or 40s. We just won’t know what to expect, so expect a little of everything when you visit. Prepare for cold weather, and if it is warm, great. Layer well, knowing that the mornings and evenings will be the coldest. I know it sounds simple and self-explanatory, but trust me when I say that every year, visitors to the park are shocked at the weather in April and May.
Amenity-Wise, Do Not Expect Much Right Now
While the roads are now opening up, it’s important to understand that Yellowstone National Park is not fully up and running yet. This is still very much the shoulder season, and a lot of the infrastructure visitors rely on simply isn’t open. Most lodges, campgrounds, restaurants, and general stores don’t begin opening until May, with some not coming online until June. Even in popular areas like Old Faithful and Mammoth Hot Springs, services can be limited or inconsistent. Fuel is another thing to think about. While most interior gas stations inside the park should be open, it is still a good idea to fill up before entering from places like West Yellowstone or Gardiner. It is better to have a full tank of gas than start to worry. Plus, gas is cheaper outside the park than inside the park.
One thing that catches a lot of people off guard is the lack of open bathrooms. Many restrooms across the park are still closed or are only just beginning to open for the season, especially in less-trafficked areas. That means you really need to plan ahead, know where stops are available, take advantage of things when you see one that is open, and be prepared for fewer conveniences overall. I’ll provide a link in the episode notes of opening dates for the entire park, which should help you plan ahead. However, this does not include restrooms, and until I can get into the park’s interior, I won’t know what is open. (https://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/operating-dates.htm). It can feel a bit bare-bones compared to summer, but that’s part of the trade-off. Fewer services also mean fewer crowds, and a chance to experience Yellowstone in a quieter, more self-reliant way.
RANDOM YELLOWSTONE FACT OF THE WEEK
The Fountain Hotel
Long before modern lodges and packed parking lots, one of the most impressive places to stay in Yellowstone National Park sat right in the middle of the geyser basin. The Fountain Hotel wasn’t just a place to sleep; it was an experience, and for a time, it was one of the most important stops in the entire park.
Built in 1891 by the Yellowstone Park Association, the hotel marked a major shift in how people visited Yellowstone. Up to that point, travel through the park was rugged and slow, mostly by stagecoach. The Fountain Hotel changed that by offering something unexpected in such a remote place: comfort. It was a large, three-story structure that could accommodate around 350 guests, and it reportedly cost about $100,000 to build, a significant investment at the time. Sitting near what is now the Lower Geyser Basin, not far from today’s Fountain Paint Pots, the hotel was surrounded by geothermal features and wide-open views of the Firehole River area.
Getting there was part of the adventure. Visitors would spend long days traveling by stagecoach before arriving at the hotel, often dusty and exhausted. Then suddenly, they were stepping into a place with electric lights, steam heat, and even hot water piped in using nearby geothermal features, something that felt remarkably modern for the late 1800s (U.S. Geological Survey; Yellowstone Insider). Evenings were a big part of the experience. Guests would dress up for dinner, socialize, and sometimes attend dances, bringing a level of refinement that felt almost out of place in such a wild setting.
The location made it even more special. Before the construction of the famous Old Faithful Inn in 1904, the Fountain Hotel was considered one of the best places to stay on the west side of the park. From here, visitors could easily explore geysers, hot springs, and mud pots, all within a short distance. It served as a hub for exploring what we now call the Lower Geyser Basin.
Some aspects of the experience, though, wouldn’t fly today. One of the most popular nightly activities was bear feeding. Staff would dump food scraps behind the hotel, attracting bears while guests watched from nearby. At the time, this was seen as entertainment, not a safety issue, a reminder of how different wildlife management used to be.
Despite its popularity, the Fountain Hotel’s time in the spotlight didn’t last very long. The opening of Old Faithful Inn in 1904 shifted attention to the Upper Geyser Basin, and improvements in road systems made travel through the park more efficient. But the real turning point came in 1915, when automobiles were allowed into Yellowstone.
That one change reshaped everything. What used to take days by stagecoach could suddenly be done in hours. Overnight stops became less necessary, and places like the Fountain Hotel, which depended on that slower pace of travel, quickly lost their importance. By 1916, the hotel had closed.
For about a decade, the building sat unused, slowly fading into the landscape. There were discussions about salvaging materials, and eventually, in 1927, the structure was torn down entirely. Today, there’s very little left, just subtle traces on the landscape for those who know where to look.
The story of the Fountain Hotel is really a snapshot of a different era in Yellowstone. It reflects a time when visiting the park was slower, more deliberate, and centered as much on the journey as the destination. It also shows how quickly things can change. In just a few decades, one of the park’s most important and luxurious hotels went from being a centerpiece of the Yellowstone experience to disappearing almost entirely.
If you find yourself in the Lower Geyser Basin today, it’s hard to picture a grand hotel rising above the steam and open meadows. But for a brief time in Yellowstone’s history, that’s exactly what stood there, welcoming travelers into the wild in a way that feels almost unimaginable now.
WEATHER FOR THE COMING WEEK
As always, this is the best forecast for the week at the time of recording. The forecast can change numerous times in a week, but this should be within the ballpark of what you’ll experience when visiting the park.
I am too lazy to type it all out, so you’ll have to listen to the podcast to get the weather forecast, or just contact me.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
SNOWPACK UPDATE
As of April 16th, the snowpack is around 75% of normal for this time of year. The eastern and northern ranges of the park are 84% of normal, while the western and southern sides are 64% of normal. Last year on this date, we were averaging around 97% of our normal level.
ROADS CONDITIONS
For up-to-date information, call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777.
CAMPING INFO
There is only one campground open in the park right now, and that is the Mammoth Campground, which is open year-round.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
You have to listen to the podcast to get this information. Sorry.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
Love what you have heard on this podcast and want more information on wildlife watching? Get a copy of my wildlife-watching guidebook to the region! Available in both ebook and paperback formats, my book will help you spot wildlife like a seasoned local. Please consider buying a book directly from me, as I make next to nothing when they are sold on Amazon. Grab your copy now at outdoor-society.com!
TRAIL ALERTS AND UPDATES
There are no official trail alerts this week. Those will be resuming in April. Right now, bear sightings are becoming more common and will only be increasing with every passing week. Carry bear spray. Have it readily accessible and not in a backpack. Know how to use it.
TREK OF THE WEEK
Fairy Falls and Grand Prismatic Overlook
With roads opening this week, there should be no surprise that I am recommending a trail in the park’s interior. While the hikes in the northern range are awesome right now, there is a path for you to wander that perfectly encapsulates the gorgeousness of the geyser basins. That trail is, of course, the Grand Prismatic Overlook and Fairy Falls Trail. In previous years, this area would be closed, despite the roads being open, due to it being in a bear management area. A year or two ago, the park shifted the bear management area, and now this area is hikeable. Before I jump into the trail overview, please know that I am writing and recording this before the roads open. There is a very small chance the Grand Prismatic Overlook trail will be closed, but based on the snowpack this year and the fact that I saw an interior seasonal employee posting pictures from the overlook a few days ago, I am operating under the assumption it will be open.
Begin by crossing the Firehole River Bridge and following the historic Fountain Freight Road, once known as National Park Avenue, tracing the southern edge of Midway Geyser Basin. Almost immediately, look to your right for one of Yellowstone’s crown jewels: Grand Prismatic Spring.
This enormous hot spring spans more than 370 feet across and plunges to a depth of 120 feet, making it the largest in the U.S. and the second largest worldwide. Its vivid colors, from a deep blue center fading outwards into fiery orange, red, and lush green, stem from heat-loving bacteria and cyanobacteria thriving in temperatures as high as 167°F. Early park visitors described its brilliance as “so dazzling that the eye cannot endure it.” Be sure to stop at the Grand Prismatic Overlook, a short detour that provides a panoramic view of the spring’s mesmerizing hues and its ethereal steam, reminiscent of Osborne Russell’s 1839 description of “a boiling lake” with distinctly colored steam. Do not skip this overlook, even on a rainy day.
At around the one-mile mark, the trail veers left off the old road and slips into a forest that tells a dramatic story of renewal. The area was ravaged by the 1988 fires, which transformed the dense, aging lodgepole pine forest into a rejuvenated landscape. The fire opened up the canopy, allowing sunlight to revive grasses, wildflowers, and a burst of new life. As you stroll, keep an ear out for the rustle of animals, both small and large.
Continue on this trail until you reach 2.5 miles, where the sound of tumbling water guides you to Fairy Falls. Water from Fairy Creek cascades nearly 200 feet off the Madison Plateau into a serene pool below. Named during the 1871 Hayden Survey for its “graceful” descent, Fairy Falls is a picture-perfect display of nature’s delicate yet powerful force.
Just a half mile further west lies Imperial Geyser. To reach this, follow a sometimes swampy, sometimes muddy trail away from the falls and creek. This leads to Imperial Geyser. In the 1920s, its powerful 80-foot eruptions from a 100-foot crater captivated visitors, even inspiring a naming contest. Although Imperial Geyser now simmers quietly, its bubbling overflow still commands attention. A short 0.2-mile walk east along its runoff channel will lead you to Spray Geyser, a smaller yet consistently active wonder that shoots water up to 6 feet through multiple vents.
For those feeling adventurous, consider hiking the steep trail that ascends from the base of Imperial Geyser. Although the climb can be challenging, it rewards you with a spectacular birds-eye view of Imperial and, if you continue on, a breathtaking overlook of Fairy Falls in its entirety. Along the way, a modest lake comes into view on your left; while simple in itself, it frames the panorama of falls and rugged cliffs beautifully.
This hike offers a front-row seat to Yellowstone’s dynamic contrasts, from boiling, colorful springs and steaming overlooks to fire-forged forests reborn with life and thundering waterfalls. Every twist and turn reveals another chapter in this ever-changing natural masterpiece, inviting you to pause, observe, and marvel at the wonders of the park.
The total distance on this will be around 7 miles and roughly 400 feet of elevation gain.
NEXT WEEK
In the next episode, I’ll return with all of the information you need to have a good week in the park, including wildlife, weather, and trail updates. Until then, book a tour with me, pick up a guidebook of mine, and happy trails!
