by 
This week in Yellowstone National Park, from May 29th to June 4th, I will talk about how to avoid getting stuck in the lines at West Yellowstone, tell you about Dunraven Pass and why you should drive it, and share a great hike for a rainy day, as it is looking to be a week week. I will also give you the complete weather forecast, wildlife report, and everything else you need to have an incredible time, “This Week in Yellowstone.”
LISTEN TO THIS AS A PODCAST!
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
Disclaimer: I might miss a few details, so feel free to reach out with questions! I also mention park locations casually—if you’re unfamiliar, a quick search can help. This report only covers drivable areas of the park.
Also, these posts are a passion project—I’m not paid or sponsored. If you’re enjoying it, I’d love a review or a quick email! To support my work, check out my guidebooks on hiking and wildlife watching, or join me for a guided Yellowstone tour. For details, visit outdoor-society.com or reach out directly!
THIS WEEK’S YELLOWSTONE NEWS
North Gate to Mammoth Road Striping
On Friday, May 30th, between 11 am and around 3 pm, the road connecting Gardiner and Mammoth will have some delays. Delays could be up to 30 minutes for road striping. The impact should be minimal, but I wanted to give a heads-up.
New Webcam Offers Glimpse into Yellowstone’s Volatile Black Diamond Pool
A powerful hydrothermal explosion at Yellowstone’s Biscuit Basin on July 23, 2024, did more than reshape the landscape—it spurred a new era of monitoring and public engagement. In response, scientists have installed a webcam to observe Black Diamond Pool, one of the park’s most active geothermal features, providing real-time insight for researchers and the public.
On May 14, 2025, the Yellowstone Volcano Observatory (YVO) set up a high-resolution, pan-tilt-zoom webcam on the damaged boardwalk overlooking Black Diamond Pool. Though temporary, the camera captures still images every 15 minutes and records video onsite for later analysis.
Part of a broader monitoring effort, the webcam offers a clear—if slightly tilted—view of daily geothermal activity and unexpected changes. The public can follow updates at: https://www.usgs.gov/media/webcams/biscuit-basin-webcam
Due to limited bandwidth, live streaming isn’t available. However, if notable changes—like new debris or wet ground—are seen in images, stored video can be retrieved and shared on the YVO website.
Biscuit Basin remains closed due to safety concerns, making the webcam the only current way to view Black Diamond Pool up close. It’s a valuable resource for both researchers and virtual visitors eager to stay connected to Yellowstone’s dynamic geology.
The camera is expected to operate through summer 2025 and may be extended into winter, depending on performance. While temporary, it plays a vital role in tracking activity and potentially detecting early signs of future eruptions.
A Reminder About Park Staffing
As of May 2025, Yellowstone National Park employs approximately 782 National Park Service (NPS) staff, comprising 395 permanent and 387 seasonal employees. This marks an increase from 2024, which had 392 permanent and 356 seasonal staff. Additionally, about 3,200 individuals work for park concessionaires during the summer peak, supporting lodging, dining, and retail services.
Despite a brief federal hiring freeze earlier in the year, all seven probationary employees affected were reinstated, with six currently active in the park. The park’s staffing levels have remained relatively stable over the past decade, even as visitation has surged nearly 40% since 2008. To address housing challenges exacerbated by increased visitation, Yellowstone received a $40 million donation in 2024 to construct approximately 70 new housing units for staff.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
Dunraven Pass
Winding through Yellowstone’s high country at 8,859 feet, Dunraven Pass is more than just a mountain road, it’s a journey through some of the park’s most awe-inspiring terrain. Linking Tower Junction and Canyon Village, this alpine route offers breathtaking views, dramatic geology, and a front-row seat to the park’s wild heart. Named after Lord Dunraven, an Irish noble who visited in 1874 and became an early advocate for Yellowstone’s protection, the pass is a tribute to the power of nature to move and inspire.
As you climb, the road opens up to a series of thoughtfully placed pullouts, each revealing a new layer of Yellowstone’s grandeur, showing off Specimen Ridge, Washburn Hot Springs, and even glimpses out to the Tetons. This high-alpine corridor is also great for wildlife sightings. Grizzlies and black bears often roam near the roadside, especially in spring and early summer. Watch for bighorn sheep navigating steep cliffs, marmots basking on warm rocks, and hawks and eagles soaring overhead. Each pullout offers not just a view, but a chance to witness Yellowstone’s untamed spirit up close.
At the Chittenden Road Junction, you can head to the Mount Washburn Trailhead when the snow is all melted, offering a hike that rewards with unrivaled, panoramic views stretching across the entire region.
Dunraven Pass weaves through a landscape shaped by fire and time. Beneath your wheels lie ancient volcanic flows and layers of ash from one of Earth’s most powerful supereruptions. Mount Washburn, standing sentinel over the pass, is the remnant of an extinct volcano—its presence a quiet reminder of the park’s turbulent past.
Built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the road itself is a marvel of design, blending seamlessly into the terrain and making the wild both accessible and unforgettable.
Driving Dunraven is unforgettable. Dunraven Pass is where Yellowstone lifts you above the everyday, offering not just a scenic drive but a powerful reminder of nature’s scale, beauty, and timeless rhythm.
TIP OF THE WEEK
Why is West Yellowstone So Busy, and How Can I Avoid the Lines?
If you follow me on social media, you probably know that once tourism season kicks off, I start to post the webcam images showing the lines at both the West and North entrances to Yellowstone. I have been doing this for almost a decade and may monitor the entrance more an anyone not living in West Yellowstone or directly affiliated with the park. Nearly every day, there is a long line at West and only a few cars at Gardiner. Some interpret my posting these images of lines as a way to show my dislike toward West Yellowstone. This is not the case. I merely post these to show the lines. I want people to be informed.
Some people want me to keep the lack of lines at Gardiner on most days a secret. To this, I say the following: Gardiner and the surrounding region do not have the infrastructure to handle as many tourists as West Yellowstone does. Unless Gardiner builds a few dozen more hotels and adds a ton more restaurants and amenities, they will never see the traffic that West sees.
May through September of 2024 in Gardiner had 339,384 vehicles
May through September of 2024 in West Yellowstone had 676,697 vehicles. That is nearly twice as many cars at Gardiner. For fun, I will share the numbers of the other entrances.
The South Entrance had 259,955 cars enter between May through September in 2024.
The East Entrance over the same period had 151,096 cars.
The Northeast Entrance over the same months had 120,975 cars.
This naturally leads me to explain why West has such long lines in the mornings. West Yellowstone has the most amenities right outside the park. Gardiner comes in second, but it is nowhere close. Because of the large number of hotels, short-term rentals, campgrounds, glampgrounds, restaurants, and other needed infrastructure, most everyone stays at West. Plus, West Yellowstone does a much better job marketing itself as a gateway to Yellowstone, showcasing itself as the fastest way to Old Faithful. Add in that they have flights coming directly to town, and it’s little wonder why so many go to West Yellowstone over any other entrance.
Without further setup, here is my single, simple, surefire tip to avoid the lines from May through September.
Enter the park early in the morning or later in the afternoon. That is all you have to do. Early means before 7 am, preferably by 6:30. Late means after 2 pm. It honestly is really that simple. The overwhelming majority of visitors will enter between 8 am and noon. Everyone knows to get there early, yet few actually do.
Entering at the times I suggest will allow you to have pretty much no wait as you head into the park. In the early morning, parking will also be easier to find at the popular spots. Those entering in the afternoon need to know that the parking lots at popular spots will remain busy until around dinner time. I will get more into how to avoid crowds at popular spots next week.
One other thing to mention before I wrap this up is to know that a lot of people who enter the park in the morning are also leaving the park in the late afternoon or early evening. This alone often causes a small traffic jam running from Madison Junction to West Yellowstone. If there is a bison or elk near the road from West Yellowstone to Madison, traffic can be backed up for over 5 miles with ease, potentially taking an hour to go 13 miles. Plan around what everyone else is doing, and your visit to the park from West Yellowstone will be fantastic. Do what everyone else does, and enjoy the lines.
RANDOM YELLOWSTONE FACT OF THE WEEK
Truman Everts: Lost in Yellowstone
In 1870, the rugged American West was still largely uncharted, a wild and mysterious expanse full of natural wonders and hidden perils. It was in this setting that Truman C. Everts, a former tax assessor and bureaucrat from Vermont, would become an unlikely symbol of survival against staggering odds.
At 54 years old, Everts joined the Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition—a team of explorers, scientists, and soldiers set on surveying the largely unknown region that would later become Yellowstone National Park. The group was composed of experienced frontiersmen, but Everts stood out: slight in stature, nearsighted, and with no real background in wilderness survival. He was included for his political connections and eagerness to contribute, not for his outdoor skills. What could go wrong?
The expedition traveled deep into the Yellowstone wilderness in August 1870, marveling at geysers, boiling springs, and canyons never before seen by most Americans. But in early September, near the shores of Yellowstone Lake, Everts became separated from the group.
No one is entirely sure how it happened, but Everts either got lost while searching for a lost packhorse or simply strayed too far during a solo excursion. Whatever the case, the result was catastrophic: he was alone, with no supplies, no weapons, and no horse. Only the clothes on his back and a small opera glass (a sort of miniature binoculars) remained.
Temperatures plummeted at night, and geysers could scald the unwary. Forests were dense, predators lurked, and there was no path back to civilization. The expedition searched for days, but eventually gave up and moved on. Everts wasn’t dead, though. Against all odds, he embarked on a 37-day odyssey that would test every shred of his endurance.
He began walking, often in circles, driven by the delusion that the group was just ahead. Nights were bitterly cold, and he had no fire. His clothing, woolen and heavy, offered little protection when soaked, and he was soon plagued by frostbite and exhaustion.
Food was almost nonexistent. He survived on thistle roots and an occasional bird’s egg or stray piece of wild fruit. He would later write that thistle root, roasted over a geothermal vent, became his main sustenance, though it offered little in the way of nutrition.
Everts’ physical condition deteriorated rapidly. He grew gaunt, lost his sense of direction, and suffered multiple injuries. At one point, he fell down a ravine, badly injuring his hip. In another terrifying moment, he was stalked by a mountain lion for days. Rather than being torn apart, he managed to frighten it off by waving a stick and screaming—proof that even at his weakest, his will to survive burned bright.
Adding to his troubles, Everts hallucinated from starvation and exhaustion. He believed voices spoke to him, offering direction or criticism. He imagined reunions with his lost companions. Yet somehow, despite his confusion and pain, he kept moving, always thinking that rescue might be just around the bend.
He eventually stumbled into a geothermal basin. It was here that his fate might have turned fatal, exposed, alone, and too weak to continue. But fate intervened.
A rescue party, led by two mountain men hired by a friend of Everts, spotted smoke from a small signal fire. The fire had been started by one of the rescuers, not Everts, but they decided to search the nearby area. What they found stunned them: Everts, emaciated to just 50 pounds, delirious, and near death.
He was carried out on a makeshift stretcher. The journey to civilization was slow and grueling, but Everts survived. He spent weeks recovering, where doctors and friends cared for him.
Soon after, his remarkable ordeal became national news. He wrote a vivid firsthand account titled “Thirty-Seven Days of Peril,” published in Scribner’s Monthly in 1871. His tale gripped the imagination of a curious public and helped fuel the growing fascination with Yellowstone’s wonders.
Ironically, despite having barely survived the wilderness, Everts remained an advocate for Yellowstone’s preservation. When the national park was established in 1872, he was offered the position of superintendent. He declined, perhaps understandably, but remained a vocal supporter of the park’s importance.
Truman Everts lived another 27 years, dying in 1901 at the age of 85. His name remains tied forever to the wild landscape that nearly killed him. Mount Everts and Everts Thistle Basin were both named for the man who survived Yellowstone’s most unforgiving terrain armed with little more than desperation and determination, and a ton of luck.
WEATHER FOR THE COMING WEEK
Lamar Valley: The forecast from Thursday through Sunday looks pretty great. Highs on each of these days in Lamar Valley will be an incredibly toasty 70 degrees, with lows in the 40s. There is a 24% chance of some afternoon showers on Thursday, but Friday and Saturday only have a 5% chance of rain. It may hit 80 on Saturday, which is hot. Sunday will start sunny and in the 70s by noon, with rain coming in during the afternoon. Then, everything shifts. Monday will be rainy and cool, with a high in the 50s and a low in the 30s, with a potential for a half-inch of rain. Tuesday will be 48 and 34, with a third of an inch of rain, and Wednesday will be pretty much the same. The lows could drop, and this could be snow. It more than likely will be snow in Cooke City and definitely snow on the Beartooth Highway.
Gardiner: Like Lamar, there is a chance of rain on Thursday afternoon and evening, then clearing for Friday and Saturday. Expect highs in the upper 70s and low 80s through Sunday, with lows in the mid to upper 40s. Rain moves into the region on Sunday afternoon or evening. Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday will be rainy, with highs in the 50s and lows in the 30s. Expect a total rainfall of just under an inch in those three days.
West Yellowstone: Highs for Thursday, Friday, and Saturday will be in the 70s, maybe hitting 80 on Saturday. Lows will be hovering around 40 on those same days. There is a chance of a thunderstorm on Thursday afternoon and evening, then a chance of precipitation returns on Sunday evening. Expect rain on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, with highs in the 50s and lows in the 30s on those days. It should rain a total of over an inch on those three days.
Old Faithful: Old Faithful will be similar to West, but around 5 degrees cooler. The rain may fall as snow, especially up around Craig Pass, so there may be some road closures.
Cody: Out in Cody, the forecast is similar to everywhere else. Thursday will see a high of almost 80 and a low of 55, with a chance of thunderstorms. Friday will be 75 or so with a low of 50. Saturday and Sunday could see highs almost hitting 90 degrees, with lows in the mid-50s. Sunday has a 25% chance of rain, mostly in the afternoon and evening. Once Monday comes around, expect rain through Wednesday, with highs in the 40s and 50s and lows in the 40s and upper 30s. The rain will fall as snow on Sylvan Pass in the park, which could cause closures or delays.
SNOWPACK UPDATE
The snowpack in the park, as of May 28th, 2025, is in the 60% of normal range. The west side of the park is up in the 70% of normal range, while out toward Cooke City and the Beartooth Highway, it is between 70% and 80% of normal.
ROADS CONDITIONS
All major roads are open right now in and around Yellowstone National Park. This includes Dunraven Pass and the Beartooth Highway. Please be aware that these and other high-elevation roads in the park may close due to snowy weather conditions. Yes, even in late May and June, it will be snowing in the park.
Because Monday through Wednesday look cool and wet, I would expect some temporary road closures due to snow, like Sylvan Pass, Dunraven Pass, and Craig Pass. I would also anticipate longer closures for the Beartooth Highway if the weather forecast is correct. If there are no closures, great, but if there are, you should be prepared.
Also, be aware of the road striping on Friday that I mentioned in the news section.
For up-to-date information, call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777.
CAMPING INFO
As always, Mammoth Hot Springs campground is open. The Madison Campground near the West Yellowstone entrance is now open. The Fishing Bridge RV Park and Bridge Bay are also open. Tower Campground is also now open, and Canyon Campground opens on the 30th of May.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
You have to listen to the podcast to get this information. Sorry.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
Love what you have heard on this podcast and want more information on wildlife watching? Get a copy of my wildlife-watching guidebook to the region! Available in both ebook and paperback formats, my book will help you spot wildlife like a seasoned local. Please consider buying a book directly from me, as I make nothing when they are sold on Amazon. Grab your copy now at outdoor-society.com!
HIKING NEWS AND UPDATES
Trails are opening and closing right now faster than the Backcountry Situation Report is updating. This coming week, expect trails to be great on the weekend, then muddy and slick next week. Most everything in the lowlands is open and awesome to trek around on, if you have the right gear. Mountain trails will be less than ideal, as they will be getting new snow on them on numerous days. Avalanche Peak and Mount Washburn will be extremely snowy still, while Bunsen Peak will have a little lingering snow near the top.
TREK OF THE WEEK
During this time of year, when rainstorms roll through and reduce visibility, I tend to find myself drawn to the geyser basins. The rain makes these regions perfect for wandering for a few reasons. The first is that rainy days tend to reduce the crowds at popular spots. The second is that some thermal features are even better during or after rainy periods. Because of this, I am suggesting you take this time to hike the Grand Prismatic Overlook-Fairy Falls-Imperial Geyser route.
Begin by crossing the Firehole River Bridge and following the historic Fountain Freight Road, once known as National Park Avenue, tracing the southern edge of Midway Geyser Basin. Almost immediately, look to your right for one of Yellowstone’s crown jewels: Grand Prismatic Spring.
This enormous hot spring spans more than 370 feet across and plunges to a depth of 120 feet, making it the largest in the U.S. and the second largest worldwide. Its vivid colors, from a deep blue center fading outwards into fiery orange, red, and lush green, stem from heat-loving bacteria and cyanobacteria thriving in temperatures as high as 167°F. Early park visitors described its brilliance as “so dazzling that the eye cannot endure it.” Be sure to stop at the Grand Prismatic Overlook, a short detour that provides a panoramic view of the spring’s mesmerizing hues and its ethereal steam, reminiscent of Osborne Russell’s 1839 description of “a boiling lake” with distinctly colored steam. Do not skip this overlook, even on a rainy day.
At around the one-mile mark, the trail veers left off the old road and slips into a forest that tells a dramatic story of renewal. The area was ravaged by the 1988 fires, which transformed the dense, aging lodgepole pine forest into a rejuvenated landscape. The fire opened up the canopy, allowing sunlight to revive grasses, wildflowers, and a burst of new life. As you stroll, keep an ear out for the rustle of animals, both small and large.
Continue on this trail until you reach 2.5 miles, where the sound of tumbling water guides you to Fairy Falls. Water from Fairy Creek cascades nearly 200 feet off the Madison Plateau into a serene pool below. Named during the 1871 Hayden Survey for its “graceful” descent, Fairy Falls is a picture-perfect display of nature’s delicate yet powerful force.
Just a half mile further west lies Imperial Geyser. To reach this, follow a sometimes swampy, sometimes muddy trail away from the falls and creek. This leads to Imperial Falls. In the 1920s, its powerful 80-foot eruptions from a 100-foot crater captivated visitors, even inspiring a naming contest. Although Imperial Geyser now simmers quietly, its bubbling overflow still commands attention. A short 0.2-mile walk east along its runoff channel will lead you to Spray Geyser, a smaller yet consistently active wonder that shoots water up to 6 feet through multiple vents.
For those feeling adventurous, consider hiking the steep trail that ascends from the base of Imperial Geyser. Although the climb can be challenging, it rewards you with a spectacular birds-eye view of Imperial and, if you continue on, a breathtaking overlook of Fairy Falls in its entirety. Along the way, a modest lake comes into view on your left; while simple in itself, it frames the panorama of falls and rugged cliffs beautifully.
This hike offers a front-row seat to Yellowstone’s dynamic contrasts, from boiling, colorful springs and steaming overlooks to fire-forged forests reborn with life and thundering waterfalls. Every twist and turn reveals another chapter in this ever-changing natural masterpiece, inviting you to pause, observe, and marvel at the wonders of the park.
The total distance on this will be around 7 miles and roughly 400 feet of elevation gain.
NEXT WEEK
In next week’s episode, I’ll return with all of the information you need to have a good week in the park, including wildlife, weather, and trail updates.
Until then, happy trails!
