by 
This week in Yellowstone National Park, from September 11th through September 17th, 2025, I will tell you how elk self-anoint themselves, share a trek where you may see bears, tell you a spot north of the park for wildlife watching, and also try to convince you to get out early in the cold mornings. I will also give you the complete weather forecast, wildlife report, the news, and everything else you need to have an incredible time, “This Week in Yellowstone.”
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Disclaimer: I might miss a few details, so feel free to reach out with questions! I also mention park locations casually—if you’re unfamiliar, a quick search can help.
Also, this podcast is a passion project—I’m not paid or sponsored. If you enjoy it, I’d love a review or a quick email! To support my work, check out my guidebooks on hiking and wildlife watching, or join me for a guided Yellowstone tour. For details, visit outdoor-society.com or reach out directly!
THIS WEEK’S YELLOWSTONE NEWS
Attendance for August
Yellowstone continued to be busy last month, which should come as no surprise. The park hosted 881,936 recreation visits in August 2025, an increase of about 2% compared to August 2024’s total of 868,259 visits. August 2025 was down roughly 4% from Yellowstone’s record August of 2021, when the park welcomed 921,844 visitors.
So far in 2025, the park has hosted 3,547,967 recreation visits, up 2% from 2024, which had 3,494,350 recreation visits. 2025 is currently down 1% from 2021, when the park had 3,590,609 recreation visits through August.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
My experience of the week needs a little disclaimer right up front: I know I might catch some flak from locals for bringing this up, but let’s be clear—I’m not exposing anything secret. This spot has already been written about plenty. Yellowstone Forever has mentioned it, High Country News has covered it, Mountain Outlaw out of Big Sky has published pieces on it, Mountain Journal has written about it, and it’s all over Facebook, Reddit, and just about every other platform where people share Yellowstone tips. Wildlife safari tour guides also bring their clients up this way often. So, yeah, if I sound a little defensive here, that’s because I want to be perfectly clear: I’m not sharing some hidden gem, and I’m definitely not encouraging anyone to go who isn’t respectful, responsible, and calm.
With that out of the way, let’s talk about Tom Miner Basin.
Grizzly Bear Watching in Tom Miner Basin: How to Do It Right
Just north of Yellowstone National Park lies Tom Miner Basin, one of the most fascinating places to see wild grizzly bears. Every late summer and fall, grizzlies gather here to dig for calorie-rich caraway roots, a food source that’s like bear energy bars during hyperphagia, the feeding frenzy that helps them prepare for winter. Seeing these massive bears in action is unforgettable, and word about it has been spreading quickly. But unlike Yellowstone, Tom Miner isn’t managed as a public wildlife viewing area. It’s a working ranching community, and that means there aren’t rangers standing by to enforce rules. The responsibility for keeping both people and bears safe falls entirely on the visitors.
Why the Bears Show Up
The big draw in Tom Miner is food. The meadows here are rich with caraway roots, which grizzlies love to dig up. These starchy, nutrient-packed plants provide exactly the calories the bears need as they pack on weight before winter. It’s not unusual to see a bear methodically digging through a pasture, sometimes with cubs trailing behind. On a lucky day, you can watch them from the road as they move through the fields. Of course, the flip side is that you might show up and see nothing at all, that’s just the reality of watching wild animals.
For a long time, this was more of a quiet, local tradition. But thanks to social media, guide services, and word of mouth, Tom Miner has become more of a destination. With more people showing up, respectful behavior has never been more important.
The Code of Conduct
Locals and conservation groups have put together a “Code of Conduct” for Tom Miner visitors, and following it is essential. First and foremost: remember this is someone’s neighborhood, not a park attraction. Stay off private land unless you’ve got direct permission. Drive slowly, 15 miles per hour or less, because the road isn’t just for visitors; it’s also a community access route and a wildlife corridor.
When you’re watching bears, keep it low-key. Shut off your engine, keep your voices down, and never crowd or approach the animals. If a bear starts moving toward you, get back to your vehicle instead of trying to stand your ground. Don’t litter, and don’t park in tall grass; it’s a fire hazard. And like anywhere in bear country, carry bear spray, keep it accessible, and know how to use it. Honestly, if you can’t follow these basics, Tom Miner isn’t the place for you, and you won’t be welcomed.
Since there are no rangers here, unsafe behavior can escalate quickly. If you see someone getting too close to a bear, trespassing, or otherwise being reckless, locals ask that you call the Park County Sheriff at (406) 222-2050. Visitors who want to help further can also support the Tom Miner Basin Association, which works to balance the needs of ranchers, wildlife, and tourists.
What It’s Like to Watch
Most people simply park along the dirt road, turn off the car, and wait quietly. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a grizzly in the distance, head down and digging, maybe with cubs nearby. It’s a peaceful, almost cinematic experience when done right. The key is to stay still, stay quiet, and let the encounter unfold naturally.
The bears here are usually focused on roots, not hunting, though some do occasionally go after livestock. To minimize conflict, local ranchers use tools like range riders, guard dogs, and adaptive herd management. Their efforts have made Tom Miner a bit of a model for coexistence, proof that people and carnivores can share a working landscape when everyone does their part.
Why Respect Matters
Tom Miner Basin’s seasonal grizzly gatherings are rare and special. This isn’t like watching wildlife inside Yellowstone, where infrastructure and rangers set the tone. Here, it’s a community space, and how visitors behave directly impacts whether people and bears can continue to coexist. Bad behavior, trespassing, crowding, littering, doesn’t just ruin the experience; it puts both people and bears at risk. If conflicts escalate, the long-term survival of these grizzlies is on the line.
Watching grizzlies in Tom Miner Basin is a privilege, not a right. By respecting the land, giving bears space, and following the local code of conduct, visitors help protect both the community and the wildlife. Done responsibly, it’s one of the most unforgettable ways to connect with Yellowstone’s greater ecosystem.
Tom Miner Basin sits just north of Yellowstone. If you want details on how to get there and what to expect, feel free to reach out. I’m happy to help.
TIP OF THE WEEK
Walk the Thermal Areas On A Cool September Morning
If you’ve ever strolled through Yellowstone’s thermal areas, you know they already feel a little like another planet. Pools glow with impossible colors, geysers bubble away like oversized tea kettles, and steam vents whisper out of the earth. But here’s a little insider secret, or at least something I think is a secret: if you really want the full experience, go in the early mornings of September when it is cold outside.
Here’s why mornings are so special: steam. Lots of it. September nights in Yellowstone are chilly, often dipping near freezing. When that cold morning air hits the hot water and gases rising out of the earth, the basins explode into towering clouds of steam. It’s dramatic, mysterious, and honestly, kind of magical.
The funny thing: people often assume that less steam would mean better views. But in Yellowstone, it can be the opposite. Aside from places like Grand Prismatic and the overlook, the steam show can add to the experience. When the air is warm and the steam vanishes, you lose a lot of the drama; the sheer scale of how many thermal areas there are disappears, and the features that stood out in the morning become harder to notice.
In the cool mornings, every little vent, crack, and pool is outlined by its own plume of steam. It’s like the earth itself is highlighting all the features for you. Suddenly, you’re aware of how many geothermal spots are packed into a single basin. What looked like just another stretch of ground in the afternoon is revealed in the morning as a landscape bursting with hidden vents, tiny geysers, and delicate wisps of vapor. The steam doesn’t hide things; it reveals them.
Tips for Making the Most of It
- Get to a thermal area at sunrise. That’s when the steam is thickest and the light is softest. The basins look completely different in the glow of early morning.
- Dress in layers. It’s cold when you start, but you’ll warm up as the sun climbs.
- Take your time. Don’t rush through the boardwalks. Pause and watch how the steam shifts, revealing and hiding features like a slow-moving magic show.
- Bring a camera. Even if you’re not a photographer, the sight of sunlight filtering through those billows of steam is too good not to capture.
The Bottom Line
Hiking Yellowstone’s thermal areas is always unforgettable, but early mornings in September take it to another level. That’s when the basins are alive with steam, when every geyser and vent seems to introduce itself to you, and when the landscape feels like it’s putting on a private show. By midday, most of that magic has burned away with the sun.
So, if you find yourself in Yellowstone in September, set the alarm early. Trust me, there’s nothing like watching the world’s greatest geothermal stage wake up for the day. If you need a good thermal area hike away from the more well-known paths and boardwalks, reach out to me, and I can direct you to some cool trails.
RANDOM YELLOWSTONE FACT OF THE WEEK
The Elk Rut 101
I mentioned the lek rut last week, but since a few of you reached out and asked for more information about it, I figured I would give an Elk Rut 101 talk.
The elk rut is simple; it is the breeding season for elk, a time of heightened energy, constant drama, and incredible natural displays that combine sound, sight, and raw animal behavior. For anyone who has seen it firsthand, the rut is unforgettable.
What the Rut Actually Is
The rut is the period in which male elk, called bulls, compete for the right to mate with females, called cows. It generally begins in early September and runs through October, although the timing can shift slightly depending on local conditions. During this time, bulls gather groups of cows into harems, defend them from rivals, and attempt to pass on their genes to the next generation through sex. The elk rut is intense, and the behaviors it produces are some of the most dramatic things you’ll see in the park.
The Sound of Autumn: Bugling
One of the most striking aspects of the rut is the bugle of a bull elk. This sound begins as a deep growl and rises into a high-pitched whistle, often echoing across valleys and meadows in haunting fashion. The bugle serves multiple purposes: it announces the bull’s presence, advertises his strength to potential mates, and warns rivals to stay away. Bugling is constant during the rut; sometimes bulls call dozens of times an hour, and hearing these eerie, powerful sounds drifting through the cool evening air is one of the most iconic experiences of autumn in the Rockies.
Displays of Power and Rivalry
While the bugle is often enough to establish dominance, bulls are not shy about backing up their claims with physical displays. Bulls thrash their antlers through brush, strip bark from trees, and paw the ground to demonstrate strength and vigor. When two evenly matched bulls clash, the results can be dramatic. They lower their heads, lock antlers, and push with all their might in contests that can last several minutes. These battles are risky; serious injury is possible, but they are necessary to establish dominance and win the chance to control a harem of cows.
Most fights, however, don’t escalate into full-on battles. Often, a show of force, such as an especially loud bugle, an aggressive posture, or a bluff charge, is enough to send a weaker rival retreating. Still, the energy in the air during the rut is palpable, as bulls are constantly assessing one another, cows are moving between harems, and dominance is challenged repeatedly.
Self-anointing
During the elk rut, bulls go to some pretty wild lengths to prove they’re the top contender, and one of the most unusual rituals is something called “self-anointing.” If you’ve ever seen a bull elk pee on his own head, chest, and mane, that’s exactly what’s happening. As strange as it might look, it actually serves two very important purposes: attracting females and intimidating rivals.
When it comes to winning over cows, scent is everything. A bull’s urine during the rut is packed with pheromones, chemical signals that advertise his strength and readiness to mate. By soaking his fur in it, he creates a strong, musky odor that lingers in the air and tells nearby cows he’s a worthy mate. It’s basically nature’s cologne, strong, unmistakable, and impossible to ignore.
But the scent isn’t just for the ladies. Other bulls pick up on it too, and that’s exactly the point. A powerful, pungent musk sends a warning that a dominant male is already in charge of the area. Combined with other behaviors, like bugling that echoes across valleys or thrashing trees with massive antlers, the smell reinforces the message: “This territory is taken, and I’m ready to defend it.”
The Harem
A dominant bull, often referred to as a herd bull, may gather 20 or more cows into his harem. Keeping this group together is no easy task. He must constantly patrol the perimeter, chase away younger “satellite bulls” trying to sneak in, and bugle repeatedly to maintain his dominance. The effort is exhausting. Bulls often enter the rut in peak physical condition but may lose up to 20 percent of their body weight by the time it’s over. The stress of defending a harem and the energy required to maintain dominance can leave them vulnerable as winter approaches, but it ensures the strongest and fittest individuals pass on their genes.
Why the Rut Matters
Beyond the spectacle, the rut is essential to the elk’s life cycle. The interactions and battles during this season determine which bulls sire the next generation. This process of natural selection ensures healthier, stronger herds over time. The rut also plays a critical ecological role: elk are a primary prey species for wolves, bears, and mountain lions, so the strength and size of elk herds ripple through Yellowstone and other ecosystems.
Experiencing the Rut
For people lucky enough to witness the rut, it’s an awe-inspiring reminder of the raw wildness that still exists. The sight of a massive bull, antlers spanning four feet or more, bugling as mist rises from a meadow at dawn is something that stays with you for life. The sounds and sights of the rut connect us to ancient rhythms of survival, competition, and renewal.
SNOWPACK UPDATE
Not in this week’s episode. This will be back in a month, hopefully.
ROADS CONDITIONS
All major roads and most side roads are open right now in and around Yellowstone National Park. This includes Dunraven Pass and the Beartooth Highway.
For up-to-date information, call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777.
CAMPING INFO
Every campground in the park that is going to open this year is open, except for Indian Creek. Throughout the park, there are numerous sites available this coming week.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
You have to listen to the podcast to get this information. Sorry.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
Love what you have heard on this podcast and want more information on wildlife watching? Get a copy of my wildlife-watching guidebook to the region! Available in both ebook and paperback formats, my book will help you spot wildlife like a seasoned local. Please consider buying a book directly from me, as I make nothing when they are sold on Amazon. Grab your copy now at outdoor-society.com!
TRAIL ALERTS AND UPDATES
Currently, as of the time of this recording, all trails that are supposed to be open in the park are open. Trails in the bear management areas are not included in that statement. All the information on trail conditions can be found on the Backcountry Conditions Page of Yellowstone National Park.
TREK OF THE WEEK
Grizzly Lake Trail to the Mount Holmes Junction
The Grizzly Lake Trail begins along the Norris–Mammoth Road just north of Roaring Mountain and runs 4.3 miles one way to its junction with the Mount Holmes–Winter Creek Trail. From the start, hikers cross Obsidian Creek, sometimes over a bridge, sometimes by ford, depending on conditions, before weaving through a marshy meadow. At just under half a mile, the climb begins in earnest. A series of switchbacks gains 300 feet in only a few tenths of a mile, levels out briefly, then pushes up another 200 feet. By the 1.6-mile mark, you’ll reach the high point of the trail, a ridge that holds both sweeping views and a remarkable history.
This slope became one of the most photographed landscapes of the 1988 Yellowstone fires. Already scarred by an earlier blaze, it was filled with dead snags and fallen logs that provided ample fuel. When flames swept through again, the hillside turned into a stark, moonscape backdrop that reporters broadcast across the country. The images, paired with news of millions of acres burned, led many to believe Yellowstone had been devastated beyond repair. Today, standing here offers a reminder of that dramatic moment and a chance to witness the forest’s ongoing renewal.
From the ridge, the trail switchbacks steeply down 300 feet to reach the shore of Grizzly Lake at 2.1 miles. Narrow and tucked between two ridges, the lake spans about 135 acres, plunges to 36 feet at its deepest, and harbors a healthy brook trout population. It’s a tranquil spot and a favorite for anglers willing to make the hike in.
The path skirts the northern tip of the lake, then crosses Straight Creek at its outlet. Depending on water levels, you may either wade or balance across a logjam to keep your boots dry. Beyond the crossing, the trail follows the creek through rolling, forested hills. This quieter stretch has a relaxed feel, punctuated by the steady sound of water. Two backcountry campsites along the way offer options for overnight stays, so you may encounter campers.
At 4.3 miles, the trail meets the Mount Holmes–Winter Creek Trail. Here, you can turn back and return to climb to the lake and the Grizzly Lake trailhead, or you can continue 2.6 miles along a relatively flat path to the Mount Holmes Trailhead, making a shuttle-style hike possible. You may have to ford another creek, though.
The Grizzly Lake Trail blends diverse landscapes, wet meadows, burned hillsides, a secluded lake, and shady creekside forest into one rewarding trek. Wildlife, including grizzly bears, is common in the area, so carry bear spray and be loud. Seasonal conditions also shape the experience: spring can bring wet meadows and tricky creek crossings, while mosquitoes linger until late summer.
For those seeking a day hike with history, scenery, and solitude, Grizzly Lake delivers. It’s demanding but not overwhelming, and it offers a glimpse of Yellowstone’s wild beauty and resilience, from fire-scarred ridges to the calm of a backcountry lake.
NEXT WEEK
In next week’s episode, I’ll return with all of the information you need to have a good week in the park, including wildlife, weather, and trail updates.
Until then, happy trails!
