This week in Yellowstone National Park, from June 19th through June 25th, I will give you an update on Yellowstone’s record visitation in May, tell you about a dog that chased a wolf in Hayden Valley, give you insights onto a lesser-known road in the park, and tell you about an awesome hike to take near Old Faithful. I will also give you the complete weather forecast, wildlife report, and everything else you need to have an incredible time, “This Week in Yellowstone.”
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Disclaimer: I might miss a few details, so feel free to reach out with questions! I also mention park locations casually—if you’re unfamiliar, a quick search can help. This report only covers drivable areas of the park.
Also, this is a passion project—I’m not paid or sponsored. If you’re enjoying it, I’d love a review or a quick email! To support my work, check out my guidebooks on hiking and wildlife watching, or join me for a guided Yellowstone tour. For details, visit outdoor-society.com or reach out directly!
THIS WEEK’S YELLOWSTONE NEWS
Record Attendance in May of 2025
Yellowstone National Park saw a strong surge in visitation this May, welcoming 566,363 recreation visits—an 8% increase compared to May 2024, which had 522,450 visits. This made May 2025 the park’s busiest May on record, marking a significant 20% jump from May 2021, when 473,799 people visited. While 2021 still holds the record for the highest annual visitation overall, with over 4.8 million visitors, 2025 is shaping up to be another busy year.
So far this year, Yellowstone has recorded 762,672 recreation visits through the end of May. That’s a 6% increase over the same period in 2024 and a notable 17% rise from 2021.
To put things in perspective, here’s a look at year-to-date visitation numbers through May for the past several years:
2025: 762,672
2024: 719,127
2023: 644,979
2022: 733,471 (The park was closed June 13–21 due to historic flooding; three entrances reopened June 22.)
2021: 649,153
2020: 145,849 (The park was closed March 24–May 17 due to COVID-19, with partial reopening beginning May 18.)
These numbers reflect not only a rebound from pandemic and weather-related closures in recent years but also a continual interest in the park as a top travel destination.
New Trail in West Yellowstone
I missed this a week ago, but wanted to cover it now. West Yellowstone has a new trail! Well, not brand new, but mostly new.
The Yellowstone Shortline Trail kicks off near the corner of Iris Street and Obsidian Avenue in West Yellowstone, Montana. It stretches 8.8 miles one way—or 17.6 miles round-trip—making it a great option for a scenic walk, run, or bike ride. With a gentle maximum grade of just 1% and a flat, 10-foot-wide paved asphalt surface, it’s an easy, obstacle-free route suitable for just about everyone.
Following the old railroad corridor, the trail traces the historic path of the Yellowstone Special and Yellowstone Express, seasonal passenger trains once operated by Union Pacific’s Oregon Short Line Railroad. As you travel along the South Fork of the Madison River and through the beautiful Custer Gallatin National Forest, you’ll enjoy sweeping views of Montana’s rugged landscape and may even spot some of the area’s signature wildlife. This route was once the first glimpse of Montana for countless visitors headed to Yellowstone National Park, and today it still captures that same sense of adventure and awe.
Wolf gets Chased by Dog in Hayden Valley
The following is from a post by Yellowstone Insight tours:
Today, a domestic dog leaped from the back window of a slow-moving vehicle in the heart of Yellowstone to chase after a wild wolf.
After some unnecessary details and critiques, the post continues:
There was a carcass hidden on one side of the roadway, and the wolf was trying to navigate a safe road crossing through the people and traffic to the food source. Many people were already out of their vehicles, and this smart wolf began walking off the road edge, paralleling it, just to get past people. The car with the dog was driving slowly, assessing the situation. I am not sure if the dog stepped on the back window button to open it, or if the window was already open.
As the car passed the wolf, the dog leaped out from the car and ran full sprint towards the wolf. Once the wolf saw the Shepherd, it began loping away which switching to a faster gait down the road. Eventually, the wolf turned and stood its ground as the Shepherd stopped the chase…. They were within a 15’ gap of each other.
The driver immediately reversed, as fast & straight as a race car driver could do, and called to his dog, which returned to the road & guardian quite quickly.
The yearling gray wolf seemed a bit shaken up, but quickly kept on its mission to circumnavigate the people and eventually swim the Yellowstone River to obtain its breakfast.
I don’t even need to say anything more.
Finally, the last bit of news I have to report is that the fire danger in Yellowstone National Park is now High.
EXPERIENCE OF THE WEEK
The Blacktail Plateau Drive
The Yellowstone National Park’s website describes the Blacktail Plateau Drive as “Blacktail Plateau Drive is an unpaved, six-mile one-way road that meanders through alpine forests and meadows. It provides a more rustic way to travel to Tower–Roosevelt, and gives opportunities to see wildlife and take in the beautiful alpine scenery.”
The road is much more than that, as are all the side roads in Yellowstone. Blacktail Plateau Drive is an old remnant of the original stagecoach road between Mammoth and Tower Junction, spanning the years from 1905 to the 1930s. The road also follows the path of the Bannock Indian Trail, which you should totally look up.
It is gaining in popularity, but since large vehicles like tour buses and RVs are not allowed on it, it gives those who can legally drive it a chance to take in some of the most grand views of the northern range from the road.
Driving Blacktail Plateau Road in Yellowstone National Park during the summer is a relaxed, scenic adventure that feels like a step off the beaten path. This six-mile, one-way dirt road, which runs west to east, so mammoth side to Tower side, starts about nine miles east of Mammoth Hot Springs, or just under nine miles west of Tower Junction, winding its way east through some of the park’s quieter, more open terrain. It’s typically open from mid-June to September, once the road has dried out from spring and been graded. While the road is unpaved and can get bumpy, with plenty of washboard sections and potholes, it’s passable in most regular cars if you take it slow. Just note that trailers, RVs, and buses aren’t allowed.
Though the drive itself only takes about 20 to 30 minutes, most people spend closer to an hour (or longer) because there’s so much to see. Wildlife is a big part of the experience here. You might spot bison, elk, mule deer, and sometimes even a moose. Black bears and grizzlies also wander through, especially in the early morning or late evening when it’s quieter. If you go in June or July, you’ll also catch a beautiful burst of wildflowers blanketing the hillsides. It’s one of the best times for photos.
As the road climbs gradually up to around 7,000 feet, the views open up to reveal rolling sagebrush flats and the dramatic Absaroka Range in the distance. Around mile four, you’ll hit a high point with panoramic views that are absolutely worth pulling over for. From there, the road drops with an 8% grade, which is quite steep, as you descend into more forested terrain as it winds toward Tower Junction. This is the section where I typically see bears and bison, though you may also see them in the more open sections of the drive.
It’s a dusty ride, and the road is narrow, so it’s smart to take it slow and use pullouts to let others pass or snap a few photos. Like most of the park, there’s no cell service and no facilities out there, so come prepared with water, snacks, binoculars, and a good camera. Also, keep an eye on the weather; sudden rain can make the road slick, and if it rains enough, it will lead to a closure of the road until it dries out. Having this road open is no guarantee.
Blacktail Plateau Road is yet another hidden treasure in Yellowstone. It’s perfect if you’re looking to escape the crowds, soak in some amazing scenery, and maybe have a wildlife encounter or two. It’s a mellow but memorable drive that gives you a real sense of Yellowstone’s wild beauty that is found beyond the paved roads.
TIP OF THE WEEK
How to Deal With Yellowstone’s Mosquitoes
They’re baaaaaack!
With a buzz and a bite, I was quickly reminded that it is now mosquito season in Yellowstone. Along the trail to Grand Prismatic Overlook and Fairy Falls, they were out in full force, distracting people from the amazing view as they had to smack the bugs off of them the entire walk and at the overlook. Getting to Fairy Falls was even worse.
Each and every year, this time of the year brings about swarms of mosquitoes and swarms of complaining about mosquitoes. Those of you who come from mosquito-infested lands should know what to do, but it’s always worth a refresher.
Mosquitoes can definitely be a nuisance in Yellowstone, especially during late spring and early summer, with peak activity typically in June and July. They’re most active in the early morning and evening, particularly near wetlands, rivers, and other areas with standing water. If you’re extremely sensitive to bites or just want to avoid the worst of it, consider visiting later in the summer or early fall when mosquito activity tends to decrease.
To protect yourself, wear long sleeves and pants—ideally in light colors, since mosquitoes are supposedly more attracted to dark clothing. I had never heard this before, but every bit of research I did to put this together suggested this as a tip, so do with the information what you will. I have also heard that clothing pre-treated with permethrin offers added protection and can be found at most outdoor retailers. My go-to, as awful as it smells and as sticky and maybe bad for me as it is, is using an effective insect repellent. Products that contain DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus (which is a more natural option) are your best bet. Last week, I just hiked with a bottle of OFF and sprayed myself as needed. Multiple people walking by asked if they could borrow it, as they were getting bitten that much. Just be sure to follow application instructions and reapply as needed, especially if you’re sweating or near water.
Now, I do want to issue a warning. Long-sleeved sun shirts don’t always stop the bites. I know of multiple people who, while hiking last year, donned sunshirts thinking they would help. They both got over 20 bites through their shirts. Also, many trails you would assume would be mosquito-free will have them. It is just that time of the year.
It’s also suggested to treat your gear, like backpacks, with permethrin. If you’re camping in buggy areas, mosquito netting can make a big difference for comfort. Try to avoid lingering in marshy or densely forested areas where mosquitoes thrive, and opt for higher elevations or breezier, more open spaces when possible. Some people try natural remedies like citronella or lavender oil, but these generally aren’t as effective or long-lasting as traditional repellents. If you are really heading somewhere buggy, consider a mosquito head net. Sure, people may laugh at you, but they can be a surprisingly helpful addition to keeping sane.
RANDOM YELLOWSTONE FACT OF THE WEEK
Swans At Swan Lake Flat
I know. I am talking about birds, but please stay with me, as this is an important wildlife success story. Sure, it isn’t as flashy as the bison and bear recovery, but it is still important and awesome.
Trumpeter swan restoration in Yellowstone National Park, particularly at Swan Lake Flat, is a powerful example of long-term conservation paying off. These elegant birds were nearly wiped out in the Lower 48 by the early 20th century due to overhunting, habitat loss, and shrinking wetlands. At one point, fewer than 70 swans remained across the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Although their numbers saw a brief recovery in the mid-1900s, the population within the park dropped dramatically again, hitting a low of just four swans by 2009–2010.
To reverse that trend, conservationists took action through captive breeding and strategic releases. Since the 1980s, groups like the Wyoming Wetlands Society, Yellowstone Forever, and the Ricketts Conservation Foundation have been raising cygnets—young swans—in captivity and releasing them in key wetland areas like Swan Lake Flat, Hayden Valley, and Alum Creek. In recent years, those efforts have really started to show results. For example, in 2019, two cygnets successfully fledged at Swan Lake Flat, the first time that had happened since 1966. By 2022, swans were nesting there again and raised two more young. In 2023, eight cygnets were released in Hayden Valley, and by spring 2024, swans were returning to places like Swan Lake Flat to nest on their own. Currently, this is a nesting pair of swans at Swan Lake Flat, which can be seen from a few of the pullouts. Please follow the closure signs and give them their space.
Today, the park is home to roughly 28–29 resident swans, including a few territorial pairs, including those nested at Swan Lake Flat. Since 2012, over 50 cygnets have been released, giving the population a better chance to grow. But challenges remain. Spring flooding, drought, predators, and disturbances from humans still threaten successful nesting. And because the local swan population is fairly isolated, it also struggles with limited genetic diversity and few new swans migrating in from other areas.
The restoration effort is very much a team project, involving park staff, researchers from Montana State University, and several nonprofit and government partners. Their work includes everything from habitat protection and nest monitoring to tracking swans via GPS and even importing eggs from Canada to boost genetic diversity.
Swan Lake Flat, in particular, has become a symbol of hope, where swans have returned to nest after more than half a century. It’s a reminder that meaningful wildlife recovery takes time, patience, and constant collaboration. But thanks to ongoing dedication, the trumpeter swan’s unique call continues to echo across Yellowstone’s wetlands.
WEATHER FOR THE COMING WEEK
Lamar Valley: This coming week is pretty steady with six of the seven days seeing partly cloudy or mostly sunny skies. The exception is Sunday. After a high in the 80s in Lamar on Thursday, high temperatures drop ten degrees a day to Sunday, when the high is 51 and the low will be 26. There is also a chance of rain or snow on Sunday. Temperatures again will climb on Monday, hitting the 60s, then maybe 70 by Tuesday and Wednesday. Expect thunderstorms every day, because it is that time of the year.
Gardiner: Gardiner will be starting out toasty this week. Highs on Thursday will be nearly 90, but then Friday will be 79 with a chance of thunderstorms, Saturday will be 64 and mostly sunny, and then Sunday will see highs in the mid-50s and lows around freezing with clouds and rain. Monday will have partly sunny skies and highs in the 60s, then Tuesday and Wednesday will see highs in the 70s and mostly sunny skies. Like everywhere right now, expect a thunderstorm or two a day.
West Yellowstone: West Yellowstone will be warm, as well. Thursday’s high will be in the 80s, Friday will be windy, with highs in the 70s, then things cool off a bit. Saturday’s high is 58 and a low of 31, while Sunday will see a high of 50 and a low of 25. Monday and Tuesday will have highs in the 60s and lows in the 30s, then Wednesday will have a high near 70 and a low of 33. Expect Thunderstorms.
Cody: After a high in the 90s on Thursday, Friday’s high will drop to the mid-80s, and Saturday will be in the mid-70s, with a chance of rain. Sunday should be rainy and cloudy, with highs in the 50s and lows in the 30s, then things warm back up around 70 degrees on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. Also, expect thunderstorms.
SNOWPACK UPDATE
The snowpack in the park, as of June 18th, 2025, is pretty much non-existent. If you head to the mountains above 10,000 feet, expect snow on them. Otherwise, things have melted out. Because of this, I will not be talking about the snowpack again until the fall.
ROADS CONDITIONS
The only dicey weather will be on Sunday, so be aware that some snow may fall at the higher elevations and could cause a temporary road closure or two, especially between Old Faithful and West Thumb, between Tower and Canyon, and out the east entrance toward Cody. Also, the Beartooth Highway may see snow. However, how much precipitation falls is anyone’s guess. Be prepared for it, and when it doesn’t happen, be happy.
Other than that, all major roads are open right now in and around Yellowstone National Park. This includes Dunraven Pass and the Beartooth Highway.
For up-to-date information, call (307) 344-2117 for recorded information, or sign up to receive Yellowstone road alerts on your mobile phone by texting “82190” to 888-777.
CAMPING INFO
As always, Mammoth Hot Springs campground is open. As of June 19th, every campground in the park that is going to open this year is open. Fun fact: there are 2001 front country campsites in Yellowstone.
WILDLIFE WATCHING UPDATE
You have to listen to the podcast to get this information. Sorry.
Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/id1789397931
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/41E5WWldz4s7n6NXh2Lahr
RSS: https://rss.com/podcasts/this-week-in-yellowstone-national-park/
PICK UP A GUIDEBOOK
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TRAIL ALERTS AND UPDATES
All the information on trail conditions can be found on the Backcountry Situation Report of Yellowstone National Park.
TREK OF THE WEEK
Lone Star Geyser
The Lone Star Geyser Trail in Yellowstone National Park is a relaxing and scenic hike that leads to one of the park’s more off-the-beaten-path geysers. Tucked away just south of the often-busy Old Faithful area, the trail starts at the Kepler Cascades parking area on the Grand Loop Road. It’s a 4.8-mile round-trip hike on a wide, gently rolling path that follows an old service road through quiet lodgepole pine forest alongside the Firehole River. The route is easy to moderate and great for most hikers, including families, thanks to the relatively flat terrain. It’s also open to bicycles (up to the geyser), and the even surface makes it doable for sturdy strollers, too.
What’s especially nice about this trail is that it offers an alternative starting point if you’re staying near Old Faithful. A connector path near the Old Faithful Lodge or Visitor Center leads to the main Lone Star Geyser trail, adding a bit of distance but giving you the option to walk right from the heart of one of Yellowstone’s most iconic areas. It’s a fun way to escape the crowds and get into a quieter corner of the park without needing to hop in the car.
As you walk, you’ll hear the steady flow of the river and may spot elk, bison, or a variety of birds along the way. In summer, wildflowers often brighten the trail with pops of color. While bear encounters are rare, they are possible, so carry bear spray and know how to use it. Along the hike, you’ll also pass a few small thermal features as you go, subtle hints of the geyser waiting at the end.
After about 2.4 miles, the trail opens into a peaceful clearing where Lone Star Geyser sits, framed by forest and bubbling quietly between eruptions. The geyser itself is a striking, cream-colored cone about 10 feet tall. It erupts roughly every three hours, shooting water and steam 30 to 50 feet into the air for up to 30 minutes. Because it’s so much more remote than places like Old Faithful, you might find yourself sharing the moment with just a few other people, or no one at all. There’s usually a logbook nearby where visitors note the last eruption time, which can help you decide if it’s worth hanging around. Spoiler alert, it is.
There are no restrooms, water stations, or facilities on this trail, so be sure to pack everything you need: water, snacks, sunscreen, and a camera or binoculars if you like spotting wildlife. The trail is best from late spring through fall, when it’s dry and clear. In winter, it becomes a popular cross-country ski route. Like most backcountry trails in the park, dogs aren’t allowed here.
Whether you start at Kepler Cascades or connect from Old Faithful, the Lone Star Geyser Trail offers a peaceful, rewarding escape into nature. It’s the perfect mix of forested solitude, riverside beauty, and the rare chance to see a geyser erupt in a quiet, natural setting. If you’re looking for a laid-back hike with a big payoff, this one’s a gem.
NEXT WEEK
In next week’s episode, I’ll return with all of the information you need to have a good week in the park, including wildlife, weather, and trail updates.
Until then, happy trails!